Gown and hat by Amy-Jo Tatum
Photo by Strotz Photography
Hair by Justina Downs
Makeup by Audrey
THE PILL BOX
GRAND ENTRANCES: Brides and Celebs on the Red Carpet
Suddenly Fall is upon us, that exhilarating time of opening nights and colorful galas. We all look to the red carpet for inspiration in putting our own looks together, especially if we have an up and coming wedding or event planned. Add paparazzi to the mix and we want everything to come together just right. To really understand life on the Red Carpet, we have to think of it similar to the coming of Christmas. Every year a woman active on the social scene has to recreate herself in a stunning way for say, the Met Ball, along with a few other glitzy functions. An actress, has the Academy Awards for which she has to show up and look beautiful. Then, of course, the bride has the ultimate benefit of an entire event all to herself with masses of loved ones orbiting around her.
RUNWAY VS. RED CARPET
So what's the difference between the whole fashion equation offered up to us via the runway as opposed to red carpet?
RUNWAY VS. RED CARPET
So what's the difference between the whole fashion equation offered up to us via the runway as opposed to red carpet?
Looking over the sometimes wakadoodle presentation of runway collections twice a year, models look 14, 40 lbs underweight and as if make up artists and hair people have run amok on them. Red Carpet on the other hand is real women editing and adapting their own persona into a designer's blueprint. Only when a woman steps into a gown, fully accessorized by her own hand (or a very talented stylist's), does that design really become a creation. Thus, the designer has become the middleman between concept and reality.
With so many actresses strutting down the carpet these days, not all you may have noticed, rate style icon status. Ever notice most have the requisite elements of chic but the picture isn't complete? the whole symmetry thrown off somehow? So, the question many are asking is, do public personalities and even brides need stylists to put them together for those occasions where there's a nanosecond to make a first impression?
You be the judge on that one. Stylist defined is, someone who puts you together literally from hairdressing, to the Manolo Blaniks on your feet. Many actresses, political figures and women on the social scene work with private stylists like Rachael Zoe, whose claim to fame is dressing stars like Kate Hudson and Cameron Diaz. A top stylist like Zoe can develop entire looks and wardrobes from sportswear to gala or simply work on premiere looks for clients who want to make that big splash at a toney bash. Whether they lead public or private lives, some women do have a way of putting themselves together without anyone’s help, thank you. Did Jacqueline Kennedy really need a stylist?
We know during her White House days she had a retinue of hairdressers and makeup people around her constantly as well as the ever present Oleg Cassini whom she kept busy custom designing her cutting edge wardrobe of the day. But ultimately, Jackie was her own best stylist. I’m finding the women who really know how to paint themselves into the whole picture and make the grand entrances have years of fashion experience, the faux pas as well as accomplishments. Then there are those who just plain get it. The same way Paul Klee looked at a canvas or Mozart the piano and just . . get it. . .
You be the judge on that one. Stylist defined is, someone who puts you together literally from hairdressing, to the Manolo Blaniks on your feet. Many actresses, political figures and women on the social scene work with private stylists like Rachael Zoe, whose claim to fame is dressing stars like Kate Hudson and Cameron Diaz. A top stylist like Zoe can develop entire looks and wardrobes from sportswear to gala or simply work on premiere looks for clients who want to make that big splash at a toney bash. Whether they lead public or private lives, some women do have a way of putting themselves together without anyone’s help, thank you. Did Jacqueline Kennedy really need a stylist?
WOMEN WHO GET IT
Anne Hathaway: Actress
Cate Blanchett: Actress
Deepa Pakianathan: Style Setter on the Social Scene
Recently at the 2010 opening of the San Francisco Opera, Deepa Pakianathan stunned us with this creation by Zuhair Murhad that had all the crucial elements of a grand ball gown while incorporating the time-honored and ancient art of silk screen. Five layers of tulle underneath, the top layer of white silk skirt is bordered in tones of black and gray depicting a scene out of 18th century London. The final touch is an asymmetrically placed black bow and sash cinching the waist. Again notice the accessories. Clearly, less is more.
Drew Altizer Potography/Deepa's jewelry by Rosalina
Mingling with Joe Lacob and Nicole Curran at the SF Opera
THE RED CARPET BRIDE
Chelsea and Bill/Vera Wang Rendering of Chelsea's Gown
On July 30, 2010 she was a vision in a whipped parfait of silk-white swirling organza. Suddenly longer veils are chic again. I have to say, Chelsea's right up there with Grace Kelly when it comes to rising to the occasion and creating the ultimate in bridal looks. Of course, you can't go wrong with Vera Wang as your designer now, can you?
WHAT IT WOULD BE NICE TO SEE MORE AND LESS OF ON THE RED CARPET
more* Going for more of a total look. Albeit this is easier for some than others but it usually means clinching the look with something as simple as a particular piece of jewelry or great pair of sandals.
less*GLITZ and more couture. Hollywood is getting better but stilll hasn't shucked the Jayne Mansfield kitch lingering from the 50s. Those who insist on gowns with a sheen or uber-bling might look to cinema designer, Edith Head for inspiration. Also, Hollywood has more blondes than Sweden did back in 1055 AD. Personally, I'd love to see a return of the Hitchkock Blonde a la Grace Kelly and 'Tippi' Hedren who really knew how to wear couture while practicing the art of being stylishly blonde.
A FEW LAST WORDS ABOUT WHITE
For me, white is the most powerful and stunning statement a woman can make with a grand entrance. The downside of this is, brides over the past few years seem to have have commandeered white as their very own. Shucking the traditional high-collar and long sleeved straight jacket designs of yesteryear, we’ve seen women marching down the aisle in backs so low and fronts a plunging, even Rudi Gernreich is turning in his grave. Add to that ditching the veil for little cocktail hats or gardenias in the hair, and this leaves women who want to sport a an all white look come gala night, open to more than a few, “Don't you look as pretty as a bride,’ comments. To all the actresses in Hollywood and women on the social scene who have sported an all-white look, I totally applaud you and encourage you from my little corner of this blogsphere to keep wearing the white satin/jersey/crepe proudly. And believe me if white isn't your game, there’s room for every style and color on the red carpet.Additional credits:
BRIDES WHO CHANGED THE TEMPLATE: GREAT WOMEN AND THE DESIGNERS WHO DRESSED THEM
They surprised the world by managing a quiet, classy and secret ceremony without the usual Kennedy media carnival. On September 21, 1996, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy walked out of a small and rustic church on the South Georgia Coast with John F. Kennedy Jr. She wore a simple white silk gown designed by one of her dearest friends, Narciso Rodriguez. After the wedding Rodriguez shot to designer stardom
. Pictured right: Narciso Rodriguez
Carolyn Bessette nailed down the evening gown look for bridal wear. Why is it that same cut-on-the-bias crepe can be worn ten years later and still look cutting edge? The wow factor of her gown had to do with who was wearing it (we all know that) and possibly something else: her body-hugging simplicity was a refreshing change after years of so much pouf and paste on the 1990’s bridal racks. She set the trend for small, simple bouquets, no fuss hair and going without nylons when you wear sandals. For brides in tip-top physical shape who like to strut trim bodies, Carolyn’s is still an ideal look. Be warned though. Toned and tight through the belly, hips and thighs are a must here.
Courtesy of CBS NEWS
Though over-the-top by today's standards, the day Diana emerged from that carriage swathed in tulle and taffeta, her storybook gown opened up so many new possibilities to brides the world over. Suddenly bridal designers could innovate and even break a few rules. Overnight Diana with the help of David and Elizabeth Emanuel eclipsed the granny gown and cookie cutter bridal uniforms of the time. The husband-wife design duo from Great Britain were the hottest thing to hit the fashion scene back in 1981. Pre Steam Punk, the Emanuels' gowns were a little bit Belle Epoch, a little bit Boho and certainly a welcome change after so many years of 70's funk. Of all the celebs the Emanuels have dressed-- Jayne Seymour and Bianca Jager to name a couple-- Diana in her fairytale gown remain the most remembered.
Courtesy of CBS NEWS
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Once Trisha Nixon walked down the aisle of The Rose Garden on her father's arm, little did the world realize just how she'd revolutionize bridal fashion. Trisha donned bare arms on her wedding day, something not done at ultra-formal weddings back then. Though she did have on a pair of lace gauntlets to replace gloves, the press dubbed her Priscilla of Boston look, 'capped sleeved'. Priscilla, the Grand Dame of bridal design circa 1940s-80s outfitted a couple presidential daughters--Trisha's sister Julie as well as Lucy Baines Johnson. The actual designer of Tricia's gown was John Burbidge from the design house who hand-dappled lace on the exquisite modified A-line silk gown.
As a designer, Burbidge was known for his discriminating choice of fabric and fitting skills. While the 1950s-60s ushered in a era where even top designers were using the new and improved synthetics in their collections, Priscilla of Boston and her favorite designer Burbidge stayed with the delicate English silk nettings and imported laces that were the trademark of The Priscilla of Boston look.
As beautiful as the gown was though, Priscilla of Boston never duplicated it and even, in an era of social unrest and experimentation, the conventional bridal market wouldn't embrace bare arms til nearly a decade later. Personally, I think the design itself is a tour de force of fine elegance and truly timeless. With a change of accessories, this gown could be worn today and not look one bit dated. . . .
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April 19, 1956, the world was treated to a storybook romance come true when actress Grace Kelly married Prince Rainer of Monaco. Thinking back to roles she played before she became a princess, we remember Grace Kelly as the ultimate 'Deb'. Had she not pursued acting with such determination, in all probability she would have become just that : A Mainline Philadelphia Debutante. As a result, on film she reflected that cool, refined blond to perfection.
Princess Grace's gown to this day is one of the most classic and remains the touchstone in bridal fashion. Impeccably made, the taffeta and Val lace confection was a wedding gift from MGM Studios. Imagine this: 25 yards of silk taffeta, 100 yards of silk net, and vintage Belgian rose point lace. Her headpiece was classic : a bandeau cap covered in tiny seed pearls under an intricate lace mantilla.
Designed by Helen Rose who worked on Kelly's costumes for High Society and The Swan, the gown was designed and run up in less than four months if you can believe that. Hollywood by then was ace at whipping up a masterpiece if a movie or event demanded. Over thirty seamstresses labored on the gown in the MGM workrooms round the clock. From a designer's standpoint, I'd have to say the Kelly gown is the most perfect dress ever made, despite it's speedy construction time. Made up of four different components, it's actually a combination of separates all put together to look like a traditional ballgown. Studying the construction diagrams with the fitted, long-sleeved bodice and full bell skirt, this gown though cutting edge back in 1956, will always be timeless.
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Audrey Hepburn loved actor Mel Ferrer. With a passion. One her wedding day, she wore a Givenchy organza shirtwaist with a full circular skirt. In life, as in most of her films, Givenchy dressed her. Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy needed each other--he needed her slender frame perfect for his designs--she needed his verve and molded right into his design concept. As a result, the Parisian designer was pulled in to work on her films much to the angst of designers like Edith Head who had to share the credit.
. Pictured right: Narciso Rodriguez Carolyn Bessette nailed down the evening gown look for bridal wear. Why is it that same cut-on-the-bias crepe can be worn ten years later and still look cutting edge? The wow factor of her gown had to do with who was wearing it (we all know that) and possibly something else: her body-hugging simplicity was a refreshing change after years of so much pouf and paste on the 1990’s bridal racks. She set the trend for small, simple bouquets, no fuss hair and going without nylons when you wear sandals. For brides in tip-top physical shape who like to strut trim bodies, Carolyn’s is still an ideal look. Be warned though. Toned and tight through the belly, hips and thighs are a must here.
Courtesy of CBS NEWSThough over-the-top by today's standards, the day Diana emerged from that carriage swathed in tulle and taffeta, her storybook gown opened up so many new possibilities to brides the world over. Suddenly bridal designers could innovate and even break a few rules. Overnight Diana with the help of David and Elizabeth Emanuel eclipsed the granny gown and cookie cutter bridal uniforms of the time. The husband-wife design duo from Great Britain were the hottest thing to hit the fashion scene back in 1981. Pre Steam Punk, the Emanuels' gowns were a little bit Belle Epoch, a little bit Boho and certainly a welcome change after so many years of 70's funk. Of all the celebs the Emanuels have dressed-- Jayne Seymour and Bianca Jager to name a couple-- Diana in her fairytale gown remain the most remembered.
Courtesy of CBS NEWSsource Once Trisha Nixon walked down the aisle of The Rose Garden on her father's arm, little did the world realize just how she'd revolutionize bridal fashion. Trisha donned bare arms on her wedding day, something not done at ultra-formal weddings back then. Though she did have on a pair of lace gauntlets to replace gloves, the press dubbed her Priscilla of Boston look, 'capped sleeved'. Priscilla, the Grand Dame of bridal design circa 1940s-80s outfitted a couple presidential daughters--Trisha's sister Julie as well as Lucy Baines Johnson. The actual designer of Tricia's gown was John Burbidge from the design house who hand-dappled lace on the exquisite modified A-line silk gown.
As a designer, Burbidge was known for his discriminating choice of fabric and fitting skills. While the 1950s-60s ushered in a era where even top designers were using the new and improved synthetics in their collections, Priscilla of Boston and her favorite designer Burbidge stayed with the delicate English silk nettings and imported laces that were the trademark of The Priscilla of Boston look.
As beautiful as the gown was though, Priscilla of Boston never duplicated it and even, in an era of social unrest and experimentation, the conventional bridal market wouldn't embrace bare arms til nearly a decade later. Personally, I think the design itself is a tour de force of fine elegance and truly timeless. With a change of accessories, this gown could be worn today and not look one bit dated. . . .
sourceApril 19, 1956, the world was treated to a storybook romance come true when actress Grace Kelly married Prince Rainer of Monaco. Thinking back to roles she played before she became a princess, we remember Grace Kelly as the ultimate 'Deb'. Had she not pursued acting with such determination, in all probability she would have become just that : A Mainline Philadelphia Debutante. As a result, on film she reflected that cool, refined blond to perfection.
Princess Grace's gown to this day is one of the most classic and remains the touchstone in bridal fashion. Impeccably made, the taffeta and Val lace confection was a wedding gift from MGM Studios. Imagine this: 25 yards of silk taffeta, 100 yards of silk net, and vintage Belgian rose point lace. Her headpiece was classic : a bandeau cap covered in tiny seed pearls under an intricate lace mantilla.
Designed by Helen Rose who worked on Kelly's costumes for High Society and The Swan, the gown was designed and run up in less than four months if you can believe that. Hollywood by then was ace at whipping up a masterpiece if a movie or event demanded. Over thirty seamstresses labored on the gown in the MGM workrooms round the clock. From a designer's standpoint, I'd have to say the Kelly gown is the most perfect dress ever made, despite it's speedy construction time. Made up of four different components, it's actually a combination of separates all put together to look like a traditional ballgown. Studying the construction diagrams with the fitted, long-sleeved bodice and full bell skirt, this gown though cutting edge back in 1956, will always be timeless.
sourceAudrey Hepburn loved actor Mel Ferrer. With a passion. One her wedding day, she wore a Givenchy organza shirtwaist with a full circular skirt. In life, as in most of her films, Givenchy dressed her. Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy needed each other--he needed her slender frame perfect for his designs--she needed his verve and molded right into his design concept. As a result, the Parisian designer was pulled in to work on her films much to the angst of designers like Edith Head who had to share the credit.
Audrey and Givenchy
sourceThe mood of the Hepburn/Ferrer wedding was simple and intimate. So is this wedding in Funny Face where again, Hepburn is decked out in Givenchy a la ballerina style, to float away with Fred Astaire singing, S'wonderful
Givenchy's bridal design for Audrey Hepburn in the finale of Funny Face
sourceOne of the most iconic women of all time, Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy possessed grace and style, leaving her indelible stamp on fashion. Her wedding to Senator John F. Kennedy in 1953 was dubbed the Wedding of the Century. Oddly, the gown she wanted would have been simpler and of less fabric, most probably created in Paris. Joseph P. Kennedy's machinations in the way of wedding arrangements along with her mother Janet's, Jackie had neither the dress nor quiet celebration of her choice. Janet's dressmaker, Ann Lowe, was engaged to make Jackie's bridal gown as well as all in the bridal party. Lowe was a very talented African-American designer known for grand entrance gowns detailed with intricate tuck, pleat and trapunto treatments. Amongst her clients were Rockerfellers and Vanderbuilts. Did Lowe suspect Jackie's would be one of the most celebrated gowns in history? We know she probably did expect some publicity. But what would have resulted in $700.00 profit was gone a week before the wedding. Water pipes in Lowe's New York City shop broke and damaged ten out of the sixteen gowns. After buying new fabric, she and her staff burned the midnight oil to finish the gowns on time for the Bouvier/Kennedy Wedding. She lost $2,000.00 in the process.
Jackie Bouvier's wedding dress designer, Ann Lowe
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Studying Jackie's dress, for it's day it is not as typical 1950s as some experts have claimed. While off the shoulder gowns were a hot trend circa '53, you didn't find them in too many church ceremonies--especially Catholic ones officiated by an Archbishop. The dress does have some elements harking back to early Victoriana. There were 50 yards of silk taffeta, with a very full circular skirt tucked and pleated (Lowe's specialty). On Jackie's head was her grandmother's rose point lace veil hanging from a circular lace cap festooned with orange blossoms. She pulled her look together with short, white kid gloves (Oh so Jackie).
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