GOING GREEN WITHOUT LOOKING TATTERED

This eyelet cotton was recycled (or upcycled) meaning it once was a tablecloth, eventually hand crafted into a wedding dress/photo by Stephanie Williams Photography

Okay, I'll admit it, there's nothing wrong with the tattered look. Innovator Issey Miyake pioneered  it in the 70s and his torn up chic still carries a haunting beauty thirty years hence. But have you noticed whenever a designer adds some green to a bridal collection, the gowns sometimes . . . well . . . all look a bit tattered and Miyakesque? So where do you start if you're seriously pondering green-friendly alternatives on your wedding day and still want to look like a bride? It's a loaded question so we'll begin with what makes for an eco-friendly fiber.

1. Production of fabric follows fair trade practices (read: no prison contracted or sweat-shop labor involved)
2. Free or low on chemicals and pesticides
3. Eco-conscious land management practices
4. Sustainable farming
5. Animal friendly practices

The sheath portion of this gown was made out of sustainable fabric from Thailand.  Backstory: The yarns were delivered to women in the village and they were able to loom it in the privacy of their own homes--not a factory. Photo by Lirette Photography

Going Green usually (though not always) can mean wearing a dress in natural fibers: organic cotton, wool, linen, silk, and of course, hemp. New fibers coming out even have bamboo, milk and soy in them. It helps to have a knowledge of the natural dying process and thinking through what impact toxic dyes might have on the environment. Here are a few questions worth asking: Is that silk I love really its natural color? If it is tinted, was it done with non-toxic dye? Is that snow white silk taffeta chlorined? And was that cotton grown free of pesticides? In the UK alone according to 2006 statistics, clothing and textiles contributed in producing up to two million tons of waste, 3.1 million tons of CO2 and 70 million tons of waste water. Have we become so used to fast food, fast technology and now fast fashion that we've created a manufacturing Goliath like this? Many designers have wised up lately reserving a portion of their collection for eco-conscious designs (moi included). Some are even using sustainable fabrics only, making sure they were produced under humane conditions at fair market wages. Although I've been getting some great press lately about offering green-friendly alternatives in my collection, I'm not as exclusively green as I’d like to be. One day we will all be green; till then here's what you could look for when buying green or having a green gown designed: 

Both gowns pictured above are considered upcycled--true vintage restored for modern brides/Top photo by Taralynn Lawton Photography--lower photo by JohnT Photo

Here are a few suggestions for getting the most out of going green:

 *Look for sustainable fabric. Custom and eco-friendly designers can source just about any sustainable fabric a client wants. I've been using the best supplier for twenty-some years. Dharma's been around and bright green since way back when hippies were popular.

* Good designers aren't afraid to experiment with new and unusual fabrics. Keep an open mind.

 *Look for a designer unafraid of making necessary changes. Starting now and next season I plan on replacing most of the crinoline underskirts with 100% cotton organdy. Most designers are making similar changes.

 *I’m fascinated by the new interest so many of my clients have in upcycling. Upcycling is a trendy term for reusing garments or fabrics that already exist. Last season a client brought me an exquisite antique tablecloth and asked me to fashion her wedding gown out of it. I was awestruck. First by the cloth. It was an allover and rare Cluny Lace. Ten years ago this would have been considered by most as ‘chintzing it’ on your wedding day whereas these days it is not only applauded but even considered a sentimental gesture—in my client’s case—the tablecloth was lovingly left to her by her great-grandmother.

*When it comes to bridal wear, there's still nothing like silk. Certain weaves and finishes go in and out of style over the years but overall silk rules. Some designers are switching suppliers and looking toward Europe where silks are also manufactured. Italian silks are the apex right now and quite expensive. Though primarily woven by robots, no human or animal is working under hazardous conditions. Factory windows aren't left gaping in sub-tropical climates and insects are not getting squished between the slubs of fabric. Fabrics these days come in the same flavors as your favorite beans, plants and dairy products. Just learned my agent personally travels to China and makes sure the workers operate in a well maintained, healthy and safe environment, are treated with respect, paid fairly and have health insurance, sick and maternity leave benefits, etc. That made me feel pretty good. Another thing I want to reiterate here when going green is to keep an open mind, it is an entirely different concept than the consumerism we were born into and one we need to explore and take seriously in order to reverse some of the damage we've done to our planet. . .

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THE WORLD OF COTTON

Amy-Jo Tatum Bridal Couture/Photo by Stephanie Williams

Thinking of spring perchance?  Since cotton is the ultimate in laid-back casual, we rarely think of it in terms of bridal wear. Think again. Especially about organdy and swiss cotton. These are some of the finest fabrics in the world and not just for kids dresses anymore. First-rate cottons like these have always been a stylish option for summer brides and garden weddings. One of the most beautiful gowns I ever designed was a dotted swiss ball gown with an asymmetrical neckline. Savvy and confident, my client amped her ‘look good’ factor by adding a dimity sash. Since not every bride wants the formality of silk on her wedding day, some designers are getting this message, offering at least one cotton option in their spring/summer collection. Bravo! Finally!

White cotton eyelet gown with satin ribbon sash, $1,975, by The Cotton Bride by Chris Kole who offers an entire collection of cotton dresses in various weaves thecottonbride.com.

COTTON WEAVES

Source

Eyelet-light to medium weight cotton with cutout patterns of embroidery along the border. Pictured above, it is a classic summer time favorite for informal brides. Makes up into pretty long or short hourglasses, sundresses, chemises, shifts, shells, A-lines. Perfect in colors for attendants.

Dotted Swiss-Lightweight to sheer cotton. Made up of a lappet or swivel weave with woven dots. Used for shirtwaists, A-lines, shifts, chemises and hourglasses. Great in colors for outfitting the wedding party.  The image below is actually from the Michelle Roth collection and is silk organza.  Though dotted swiss is not difficult to find as yardage, bridal gowns and dresses in this particular weave are right now.

Michelle Roth

source

Organdy-Pictured above, organdy is a light, plain weave of cotton or poly that is transparent and permanently stiffened. Sometimes used for jacket interfacing and making lightweight hats. Lends itself well to the once popular daytime formal concept of afternoon garden receptions —the kind a Katherine Hepburn character would have attended. Crisp and pure, it makes up into lovely structured hourglass silhouettes and A-lines.

Salvage Life

Voile-The above dress is voile which means ‘veil’ in French so you get the idea of how light it is. Sheer, plain weave of cotton or polyester. Dubbed ‘poor man’s chiffon’ because of its less formal appearance than its counterpart, silk chiffon. It is however, in some cases, more expensive than silk chiffon for the reason it’s not as redily available as silk chiffon that you find everywhere.

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THE COTTON WEDDING DRESS

Dresses by Amy-Jo Tatum Bridal Couture

Photos by Smoot Photo

Hair by Gayle Parker

The cotton wedding dress. Easy and comfortable to wear, these dresses are surprisingly affordable.




Most of us associate cotton with everyday wear. Since cotton is the ultimate in laid-back casual, we rarely think of it in terms of bridal wear. Think again. Especially about the imported Swiss eyelets in the photos above and below.




Imported swiss eyelet with scalloped neck and hem.

Cottons are not just for kids dresses anymore. High quality cottons like these have always been a stylish option for summer brides and garden weddings.



All over eyelet A-line with Sabrina neckline

Not every bride wants the formality of silk on her wedding day so some designers are getting this message, offering at least one cotton option in their spring/summer collection.

Close up of 'Gretel', a sweetheat neck trimmed in cotton lace


Want to see more of what's going on with the cotton collection? Visit Amy-Jo Tatum Bridal Couture.

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WHAT'S NEW IN THE GOWN GALLERY?

Tashiko! A silk dupion modified A-line. If you like embossed chiffon, you’ll love the treatment I gave it here. The sleeves look more like lace folding into a gathered sweetheart empire waist that ties in back creating a sweep train. The underskirt is layers of crin trimmed in yards of lace.

Photos by Smoot Photo/Hair by Gayle Parker
Inspiration for this dress came from two sources: the obi sashes on the backs of wedding kimonos and this 1805 portrait of Mlle. Riviere by Ingres, a copy of which hangs in my kitchen and I guess has been inspiring me a long time now. The regency look of the early 19th century is visible here but so is the Asian influence with the back sash that ties like an obi. Also, the chiffon is embossed with lilies and they always remind me of the Far East.

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GOING GREEN

Above: Swiss cotton eyelet bouffant dress reminiscent of the daytime formal look. Below: Tea-dyed hemp and silk gauze gown specially commissioned for a client.

Green brides are just going to have to spend a little more time and care choosing the dress. Since more are going custom or buying wedding wear in green-alternative boutiques, there's not only a need to know what materials go into the making of a dress but also who is making the piece and where. As one bride put it, "I couldn't stand up and make such an important commitment, knowing any part of what I had on my body might have been put together by prison labor or in a sweat mill. It just goes against everything I believe in." Going Green can mean wearing a dress in natural fibers: organic cotton, wool, linen, silk, and of course, hemp. It helps to have a knowledge of the natural dying process and thinking through what impact toxic dyes might have on the environment. Here are some questions to ask: Is that silk I love really its natural color? If it is tinted, was it done with non-toxic dye? Is that snow white silk taffeta chlorined? And was that cotton grown free of pesticides? If you find answers to these questions through the help of a green-savvy designer or seamstress, you could make this a real project planet-style endeavor.

Going Green can also mean saving resources by wearing a previously owned gown. So where do you find one? Here are some options.

*Second Time Around Bridal Shops

*Vintage Shops

*Thrift Shops and Flea Markets

*Family


Green Friendly Sites for Brides

*Great Green Wedding

*Green Weddings
*Vibrant Events

*Amy-Jo Tatum Bridal Couture

*Rawganique

Gowns by Amy-Jo Tatum

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GREEN CHIC:Going with Environmentally Friendly and Recycled Fabrics

By Amy-Jo Tatum

Going Green? Though its big time trendy now, years back green brides were comming through my door on a regular basis. Where did they all come from? Awesome green Northern California. The bride in the tea-dyed hemp and silk gauze dress above wanted to know every material that went into the making of her dress. This is becoming more rule than exception. Since more brides are going custom or buying wedding wear in green-alternative boutiques, there's not only a need to know what materials go into the making of a dress but also who is making the piece and where. As one bride put it, "I couldn't stand up and make such an important commitment, knowing in my heart any part of what I had on my body might have been put together by prison labor or in a sweat mill. It just goes against everything I believe in."

Going Green can mean wearing a dress in natural fibers: organic cotton, wool, linen, silk, and of course, hemp. It helps to have a knowledge of the natural dying process and thinking through what impact toxic dyes might have on the environment. Here are some questions to ask: Is that silk I love really its natural color? If it is tinted, was it done with non-toxic dye? Is that snow white silk taffeta chlorined? And was that cotton grown free of pesticides? If you find answers to these questions through the help of a green-savvy designer or seamstress, you could make this a real project planet-style endeavor. Going Green can also mean saving resources by wearing a previously owned gown. So where do you find one? Here are some options.

SECOND TIME AROUND BRIDAL SHOPS
Walk in any bridal consignment shop these days and you’ll feel more like you’re in a high-end designer salon. With catchy names like Encore Bridal and One More Time, these places offer some elegant, gently worn gowns in better shape than your average designer sample. In fact, the proprietors of these places can get real persnickety about what they take in—some only accepting top designer names like Vera Wang and Reem Acra in all natural fibers. In addition, once gowns are accepted they’re cleaned and pressed (Ask where though. More shops are specializing in environmentally safe cleaning)
If you’re price conscious this is the place to shop. Gowns that retailed last season for $3000-4000 are typically half off but sometimes can go for as little as $500-600.
More good news. You’re going to get very personalized assistance—the same as in a full service bridal salon. Though there will be re-altering involved, you won’t have to wait 4-6 months for your gown. Bear in mind once-worn gowns have already been pre-fit and altered to someone else’s body. Just make sure they’re once-worn; an over altered dress that’s been on more than one body could lose its original shape after a while. Ask how many and what kind of alterations the gown you want has had. Typically, if it’s gone through more than two brides, forget it. In addition to alterations your shop may offer customizing services (for a fee). Shops realize with previously-worn gowns, there’s a kind of possessive energy the new purchaser wants to create to make the gown her own. Therefore some shops focus on customizing.
FYI: Naturally bridal consignment shops don’t stock set sizes like salons do. Small and larger brides might have to work closely with staff and keep a lookout locating a gown in their size.

VINTAGE CLOTHING STORES

Most Vintage clothing stores stock actual gowns from by-gone eras as well as ‘retro-inspired’ selections that are brand new. The bride in love with a particular era of clothing usually checks vintage clothing stores first. Not all brides opt for an actual gown that survived her favorite era though. Some choose a newer style reflecting the period in natural fibers. Why? Because that authentic 1925 chemise may be so delicate, without proper restoration it could literally fall apart. Think of gowns belonging to the ages like you would certain antiques: some so precious to be considered museum quality. Depending on restoration, the rule of thumb is, the older the gown the less they should be worn. If you are set on wearing that 1910 dress find a specialist in restoration who can advise.

THRIFT SHOPS AND FLEA MARKETS

Here’s where you’ll find some darling little ladies working for a good cause. And they can be charming and helpful, especially if you’re a bride. Chances are if you're environmentally conscious you’ve gone this route to unearth real finds before so you already know your way around. I have to give you some kudos here. Rummaging through flea markets and thrift stores takes a certain kind of bride—the kind who believes in recycling even on her wedding day; the kind that doesn't give a damn whether she’s wearing hand-me-downs. If this is you, you’re a rarity. And yes, you’re likely to spend hours and days sorting through racks of Four Weddings and A Funeral cast-offs before you uncover that 1963 Priscilla of Boston original in silk taffeta. Thrift shops and flea markets are also the place you'll find recycled fabrics and linens. You've seen those cuts of dimity and silk someone had in their attic. How about curtains, table or bed linens? Some have such beautiful embroidery that are screaming to be made into a dress.

FAMILY

Maybe not mom or grand mom's dress; especially if mom was a Dianaesque bride. Suppose your sister or best friend's gown is awesome? Did you know Jean Kennedy wore her sister Pat's Hattie Carnagie sheath for her 1956 wedding? With a little customizing (sash, shrug, a few florals added) you've got a whole new gown. Here's another Did you know? tidbit. In the 1940s weddings were rush events with so many men shipped off to war. Time was scarce and fabric rationed. Ordinarily a war bride wore her best dress which many times was a suit. There's one story about a to-the-floor-formal A-line complete with chapel train in white silk satin, passed on from one bride to the next so many times it was eventually lost . . . I always thought this would make a great premise for a string of short stories by Anne Beatty . . .

A few great links to get you started here. Happy green wedding!

RAWGANIQUE-Clothing and products for a fragile planet.http://www.rawganique.com/organic-hemp-wedding-clothes.htm

DHARMA TRADING-Pure and natural fibers. I've been in and out of this place since the 70s buying fabrics. They've been trading green and natural some thirty years. http://www.dharmatrading.com/

GREEN ELEGANCE WEDDINGS-One of my favorite spots. http://www.greeneleganceweddings.com/

PORTOVERT-http://www.portovert.com/

SHADOWS-Vintage clothing and bridal http://www.shadowsbridal.com/

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